Blunders

"At least we didn't each eat a whole bar of chocolate...this time we only ate half a bar each..." (saved my Ritter Sport for 4 months...that's impressive) as I celebrate the fact that I did not lose Didi's sari but apparently left it on the sofa when I came home last Thursday night. Well I panicked when I entered my room Thursday night and realized the white plastic bag was not in my hands, calling the resident director of the program and sending out an email to everyone asking if they had seen the sari. Today when I accepted it was lost and finally worked up the courage to tell her it was gone, she looked at me with disbelief and said, "But it's hanging in my cupboard!" And I didn't believe her until she pulled it out and showed me. I can already hear her on the phone laughing with her friends about my scatterbrained mistake.

Anyway I'll be home in the US in 3 days!!!! Today was the last day of presentations. We had some great internships on various topics, everything from homosexuality to micro finance to summer camp education to opening an Indian food brand to the American market. One that was really impressive was Jen's presentation on what rape victims face when seeking social justice. It was astounding to hear her findings, especially because the legal definition of rape must be changed in order for rape victims to be able to find any justice in the crime against them (it is so specific that it barely includes anything, and it only works for men raping women). A man's "immoral" character cannot be used against him, but a woman's "immoral" character can be used against her in court. Jen worked with an organization called Sayog- Human Rights and Law Defenders and compiled a report for them which will be presented to the police commissioner of Pune (first female commissioner in a very long time) by a pressure group made up of different women's organizations. Sayog hopes that if Pune makes a legal change, other cities in the state will follow suit and they will be able to bring the report to the Supreme Court for even bigger things! Jen was interviewed by the Times of India newspaper, and we're all excited that her hard work paid off.

I spent the afternoon with Melissa trying to navigate the public bus system of Pune in order to find our way to Sinhagad Fort. We made it there, with my legs literally protruding from the bus seat, ready to hike up to the fort. I mistakenly wore flip flops, which broke on the way down from my sweaty feet sliding around in them, and had to hobble the rest of the way on the rocks. It was a bit more strenuous than I had anticipated for doing in such hot weather but we made it! For some reason I can't upload a picture of it, but my photos are in my facebook album (skip to the end so you don't have to see a million pictures of my friends playing Ninja): http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1760606578442.2096982.1337370166&l=7c5db02dd6 




GUESS WHAT?!?! I'll be seeing you soon!!!!!!!!!!

Picture Day

We borrowed Didi's saris. She had fun wrapping us up!

Alliance for Global Education Pune- all students and staff

The weather is up to 106 degrees Fahrenheit but I'M DONE WITH THE SEMESTER! I just had my final presentation today about my internship with BAIF. I finished my internship last week. I really enjoyed the staff I worked with there; they were extremely helpful with my project and designing my module on biodiversity for the students at the village. I planned 3 activities- picture identification of the state tree, flower, animal and bird, create your own poster with pictures of the village and positive environmental awareness slogans, and a nature scavenger hunt. I was told that I would be working with 10 students from standard 8 at Village Tamhini, but this is India so I ended up working with 45 students ages 3-18 at Village Aadarvadi. Somehow it worked out! I didn't have my translator, I had two BAIF staff who said they would fulfill that role which made me a little bit nervous without my right hand (wo)man. My activity plan was detailed enough that the BAIF staff led the activities well, and although I couldn't understand what the students were saying or writing, they smiled and laughed at me a lot and said they enjoyed the session. I took a ton of pictures of them and I was sad to leave. I wish I would have had time to do more with them! We had an ethno botanist with us from BAIF who identified everything they collected on the scavenger hunt so that they could see the diversity of nature they collected in 15 minutes just by stepping outside the classroom. Before we left, I gave the teacher of the school a copy of the lesson plan translated into Marathi. The only thing I forgot was candy for them. Whoops.

Creating their poster

They were all such beautiful children!

Scavenger hunt collections

After we were done at the school, we had dinner in the village with the best daal I've ever had and bhakri which is a different kind of chapati. I watched Rajashree, the BAIF staff I've been working with since the beginning, run away from the cat who wanted some love and attention and felt the cool breeze that is nonexistent in Pune.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY SHOUT OUT TO AMANDA!

Bringin' back the '90s

These past two weeks have yet again (thank you 17 essay program) been filled with paper writing and CANDY. Easter chocolate eggs, fruit cake- the good kind, chocolate crosses, jelly beans, gummy bears, candy corn, you name it! Paper writing has meant spending more time in coffee shops where they like to blast American music- the same ten '90s songs over and over, play a Bollywood music video on the TV screen while Akon's "Right Now" plays or pretending to do work in the program center where we relive childhood by singing along to Smash Mouth's "All Star" and eating gummy bears. It also means going home later because you know you're just going to fall asleep as soon as you get in your room so you are walking in the dark, crossing the road at a busier time....

The Cons of Being a Foot Taller Than Your Roommate

1. After you are nearly hit by a rickshaw crossing the road and she finally releases the death grip she had on your wrist, she looks up sincerely at you and says, “Sorry. I was using you as a shield.”
2. You have to duck every time you walk on the sidewalk underneath the trees while she laughs behind you.
3. She automatically appears to be more flexible during yoga class.
4. She can cross her legs in an airplane seat while you spend 15 minutes trying to get your legs in from the aisle. 
5. She is normal height in India while you are just a freakin' giant, even around men.

But I guess she's alright because she made me banana pancakes :-)

The Good News...

Standard 8 students who took me to the Sacred Grove

The school at Village Tamhini

Flowers used to make natural dyes

     My internship with BAIF Development Research Foundation started last week. I go 3 days a week for all of April. My internship has been going better than I expected; I am now unsure of why I was so nervous in the first place. I have a student interpreter who comes with me, and my contacts at BAIF are extremely helpful and friendly. I visited the village I'm working in twice last week and will be back soon to actually work with the students.
     Village Tamhini is set about an hour west of Pune city in the Sahyadri mountain range, one of the largest in Maharashtra. The village lies just beyond the Mulshi dam. Tamhini only has a population of about 500 people, with students coming there for school from neighboring villages. The area has a high amount of rainfall, making it useful for growing rice. The village is heavily agriculture based with almost every student raising their hand when I asked if they had a farm at home. Wheat and sugar cane are also grown in the village, but the small number of crops grown leaves the village with a high deficiency of vegetables. They purchase them weekly from a nearby village, but this does not satisfy the need for a fresh, nutritious part of their diets. BAIF’s work includes the construction of kitchen gardens to grow vegetables with which they can feed their families. BAIF projects are new (within the past six months) and not very widespread, so I would assume that most students have not been exposed to vermicomposting and backyard gardens yet.
     I would like to learn more about the Indian education system, but from observations, I have seen a lot of book knowledge being taught and tested. There are little additions to learning, with few activities or out of classroom trips. The headmaster of the school also noted that students made little connection between the theoretical knowledge from their books and the practical knowledge in life. The curriculum does include practical exams that account for a decent percentage of their grade, but it does not seem to be enough. The projects, like taking care of plants, are useful, yet they do not allow students to see the need for environmental conservation. Standard ten students conduct a bigger project on an environmental topic of their choice; i.e., studying pollution levels in leaves, research on native plants, birds, and different kinds of soil. These are more beneficial because the students develop an appreciation for something through knowledge on the subject; the more they are aware of nature’s importance the more likely they are to treat it with respect. The students as a whole said their favorite subject was Marathi because it was easy.
     My experiences with the standard eight students have led me to believe that they are knowledgeable on their local environments, knowing what trees to pick sweet fruits from and the names of various plants/shrubs/trees in their village. Although they are comfortable in their natural environment, once in the classroom, the students lose the connection between the textbook and life. Environmental Education as a compulsory subject is a wonderful idea, and the students know about the issues taught in the textbook- pollution, waste, sanitation, etc. Yet, this is not enough. The students do not see a way to take this knowledge home and apply it to their everyday actions. When I asked the students what environmental issues they faced, they said they do not face any. I assumed that they would realize the sanitation issues of the soak pits outside their homes and the garbage piles littering the ground. Things like this have become so common though that they no longer think about its implications or affects, especially on their own health.
     What they read about in their textbooks is believed to be something happening outside of their world; in their eyes, pollution happens only in the city and does not affect them. Despite this current view, they have open minds and through encouragement and further experiential learning, they will be able to see the relevance of the environment in their lives. They are also lucky to live in a unique area; the area surrounding Tamhini is beautiful with the mountains, forest and water. There is also a waterfall, which is becoming a tourist attraction for urban dwellers.  The students are surrounded by vast natural resources, which is why they need to see the reality of the environmental fragility surrounding them, as well as their personal significance in its preservation. They understand what a sacred grove is and know what they should not do in their backyard sacred grove. This is knowledge that comes directly from their families through childhood. If they can respect this small area of nature, what makes everything else so vulnerable to human caused degradation?

     

 

Rajashree, the woman at BAIF who has been guiding me in my internship, invited me to her daughter's Indian classical dance concert. Her daughter has been taking bharatnayam for the past 9 years. It is somewhat theatrical, with all the dances telling stories of the gods using facial expressions and detailed hand movements. The makeup, costumes and jewelry were very elaborate but beautiful; I was told it took them two hours to get ready before the show!

Happy Birthday to Me

So my birthday was pretty awesome. I went to mass in the morning, feasted on watermelon, had my friends sing to me while I tried to blow out trick candles, had cake shoved in my mouth, ate real PANCAKES, had ice cream, bought warm almond cake from a bakery, went to the movies and saw Rio and laughed out loud, got flowers and hand drawn birthday cards, skyped for three hours with my family and friends, talked to my friend whose birthday was happening at the same time on a different day in the US, and paid for nothing all day long. My birthday continued on into Monday as I opened a birthday package with Swiss chocolate, homemade granola bars, chocolate peanut chews and birthday decorations. My friends are jealous of my delightful packages. And I met my goal of doing absolutely no work on my birthday, hence why I was eating Toblerone at 3:30 am on Tuesday morning as I wrote my bazillionth paper this semester. Only 4 papers to go! and a journal of public health entries for every day of the past 3 months....whoooops.

We also celebrated my roommate, Hannah's 22nd birthday on April 5. We'll be celebrating with massages next week. 

The Bad News...

I would like to forewarn you of the depression that writing this paper put me in, but I would still encourage you to read it. 

I don't actually know what this says because it's in Malayalam but I'm going to find someone who can translate it.

Female Foeticide and Social Justice

Violence against women is at a completely new level in India. Women face unequal, degrading and unjust treatment daily, but the bigger issue lies in how few women are given the opportunity to live. The declining sex ratio shows how women in India socially lack the right to life. Although the law does not allow sex determination tests, it is socially acceptable to find out the sex of the fetus for female abortion purposes. India is facing a serious decline in the life of women because they are not given a chance to live. Sex-selective abortions take place left and right throughout the country; there are no locational or characteristically determined boundaries to this practice. Doctors perform them for the financial benefit and families happily allow it to try again for a son. Women are not always forced into the abortion; the mother often feels she is “saving” the female from a life of hell. This is a serious issue rooted in the low status of women.

India has one of the worst sex ratios in the world. This may not be a new fact, but the sex ratio is declining. The UN reported that 7,000 fetuses are aborted daily (Sinha), and data estimates that there will be 20% more men than women in the next few decades (Pathak). By 2020, there will be 40 million unmarried young men in the country due to the adverse sex ratio (Bedi).  This is already having severe social consequences including the importing of brides from other states or nearby countries like Nepal. Marriage has a huge cultural importance in Indian society and without as many women to wed, violence against women is surely going to increase.

            Indian society views women as a financial burden; it is cheaper to abort a female fetus than to birth it, raise it, find a groom for it, and give it away with a large dowry. It is extremely important for a daughter to be married; a woman who marries gains identity, prestige, protection and a home. Unfortunately, marrying off a daughter means paying dowry. Dowry has been illegal since 1961 but it is still a contemporary practice. It is growing to be more expensive, lasting long after the initial marriage ceremony of the bride and groom. The rise of consumerism has caused greater demands from the groom’s family in terms of dowry. Dowry, associated as a tradition of the higher castes, is now being used by lower castes who are replacing their previous tradition of bride price (Grewal). This movement of Sanskritization has spread the practice and caused financial drain to many families. Dowry in a marriage is also seen as an act of honor, love and respect, which is partly why it remains in place today.

            Indians have been socially conditioned to have a son complex. This socially constructed belief slightly differs by region, but facts generally remain the same; sons are every family’s desire. They bring in money through employment and dowry from their bride; they will continue to take care of their parents through old age, financially and physically. If a girl is born to the family, the son will take care of his sister and assist in paying for her dowry. A son can also inherit the family name, family property and other inheritances that a daughter does not receive. The birth of a son is met with great celebration because the family will be rewarded a higher social status due to his birth. Additionally, a son has a greater chance of living abroad, which gives the family a higher status as well. The son is seen as valuable because of the finances and status symbol he provides; a daughter is not believed to bring either of these joys to the family. The son complex also has a religious foundation with the Laws of Manu depicting an ideal female as obedient and dependent on the care of a male (Grewal). With Christians and Muslims having normal sex ratios, the Hindu religion is an influencing factor in terms of the declining sex ratio in India (Sinha). Contrary to popular belief, the son complex is nonexistent in tribal areas. Rather, it is more prevalent with the upper middle class and elite. All India Shiite Personal Law Board (AISPLB) New Delhi spokesperson Khan said that in a recent survey 70% of female harassment comes from the elite and upper-middle class (Pathak).  

Innovative technologies have allowed for sex-selective abortions; female infanticide still happens but female foeticide has become more common because of early detection availability. Private sex-determination clinics began after government hospitals banned the practice. Sex-determination happens more often in urban areas than rural, with Delhi and Bombay as two popular places for the illegal practice (Patel).

            Why are doctors permitting these immoral practices? Medical ethics are thrown out the window in a $250 million dollar industry like SD tests and sex-selective abortions (Sinha). There is a variety of sex-determination tests performed regularly, with amniocentesis being one of the most popular. Nineteen seventy-five was the beginning of the development of amniocentesis to find fetal abnormalities/genetic conditions but due to its ability to determine the sex of the baby, it is now also used as a sex determination (SD) test. Amniocentesis is also cheaper in India than in other countries, making it easily available and affordable to many Indians who want it (Patel).  Ultrasound scanning, created for a similar purpose as amniocentesis, has also been transformed into a SD test; it has grown more prevalent because it is less invasive to the woman (Grewal). There are a variety of other SD tests including sonography, needling, fetoscopy, and chorion villi biopsy (Patel). Some doctors even misuse ultrasonography by performing the test before 12 weeks when they will not be able to tell the sex of the fetus; they can use speculation to determine the sex of the fetus. If they tell the parents it is a girl, truth or not, this influences the parents into having a sex selective abortion. Sonalda Desai has reported that there are posters in Bombay advertising sex-determination tests that read, ‘It is better to pay 500 Rs now than 50,000 Rs (in dowry) later’. (Grewal). The performance of these tests contributes to the practice of female foeticide; there is no need to give birth to the baby in order to find out its sex. Abortion is being used to eliminate long before birth, which can also have detrimental health effects on the mother.

            Sex selection before or after birth is prohibited by the 1994 Pre- Natal Diagnostic Techniques (Regulation and Prevention of Misuse) Act. It came into force in 1996, and two amendments have been added since then. An assessment of this act’s implementation in Delhi revealed that management and implementation was failing; low commitment or motivation, corruption and little knowledge about the Act’s provisions in clinics, the majority of citizens were unaware of the prohibition of the Act (Grewal). The lack of enforcement has caused the common citizen and doctor to disregard the legal rules on abortion. The punishment can be a fine of Rs. 10,000 or up to three years imprisonment (Grewal). Bedi terms the government’s neglect for this act as “organized medical crime”. Abortion was legalized in India in 1971 (known as the Medical Termination of Pregnancy Act) “to strengthen humanitarian values” (pregnancy can be aborted if it is a result of sexual assault, contraceptive failure, if the baby would be severely handicapped, or if the mother is incapable of bearing a healthy child) (Grewal). The state of Maharashtra in 1988 created a bill making sex determination tests illegal and advertisements for facilities with the test illegal. Although this is a step in the right direction, the bill has many limitations and does not address the whole of the issue (Patel). Most legality is useless in preventing sex selective abortions because of the filing of cases, long trial waiting times and lack of enforcement of the issue.

If female foeticide continues to occur at the current magnitude, the dwindling number of women will cause further social justice issues beside the lack of human rights for women. Due to a lack of available brides, kidnapping of women to be sold into marriage is bound to increase. With all these women ‘missing’, an increase in rape is likely, as well as a rise in the number of sex workers (Grewal). This scarcity of women is not going to increase females’ value or status. The genocide of the female race should be causing great alarm, especially since the effects are visible. Women already lack just treatment in many spheres of life across the world, but the right to live is definitely the worst of it. Much more needs to be done in stopping this practice. The mindset in India and across the world needs to change on the view of the female, and laws need stricter enforcement in order to be taken seriously. The action of female foeticide must be seen as having serious long term consequences, not just on the mother and the family, or on the female population, but on the whole world. 

But now you should watch this video and it will cheer you up a bit.

Here. Go to Pakistan.

When camels stand up, the back legs go up first and then the front
so you have a moment of imbalance where you hope you don't fall off. 

Me after playing Holi

Colors!

These are the words, Sahil, my camel driver said to Juli as he handed her the reins (he was joking). We were only 80 km from Pakistan in the Jaisalmer desert in Rajasthan.


I apologize for the delay. The past 2 weeks have been full of papers, class, a bit of illness, 3 days of crazy traveling, a trip to the movies (Matt Damon in Hereafter...which had the cheesiest ending that closely resembled Bollywood, caused me to cry way too much, and showed the London train bombings which felt too soon), some shopping, yoga, PACKAGES!, pregnancy news, heat, heat and heat. I received 2 wonderful packages full of cookies, granola, magazines, and candy plus prayers and letters from special people, like my 7 year old friend Jackson. Here's my shout out to you guys- thanks!

So that crazy trip...the 7 of us had a driver take us from Pune to the Mumbai airport- we flew to Jaipur where a driver picked us up and drove us to our hotel on Friday. The next morning our driver for the weekend, Mahavir, took us into the city to see the palace and a fort, we had some lunch and went to the elephant festival- raved about in Lonely Planet- a huge tourist attraction filled with more white people in one place than I've seen in India so far. We arrived early to get seats, then as soon as the procession of painted elephants started, people ran up to take pictures and stood right in front of us in a large crowd. It was kind of a disappointment- there was some dancing and music but we left early (our friends who stayed longer said it didn't get much better). From there, Mahavir drove us all night to Jaisalmer- a 15 hour drive including all the stops (yes he stopped to rest). The drive began with a flat tire at dinner. I probably only slept 2 hours, constantly changing positions, and losing energy coming up with creative positions to sleep in with the crowded space.

Sunday was when we played Holi- color throwing (which we thought was Saturday and had to wear our white outfits 2 days in a row)- so we had Mahavir drop us off in the center of town at Jaisalmer. Everything was closed for the holiday, the town was slightly deserted except for people riding their motorbikes around stained with every color of the rainbow. We bought some colors and walked around a little, immediately attracting attention, being smeared with powder on our cheeks, shrieking "Happy Holi!" Through spluttering pink spit, crowds of people overwhelmed me with piles of powder and little boys squirted dye (powder mixed with water);  we called quits to the human sand art that lost its appeal relatively fast. After carefully tiptoeing through the hotel lobby and being photographed by German tourists with a disapproving look from the staff at the counter, we attempted to wash the tie dye off our bodies, coming out clean with slightly stained purple skin and streaked hair.

As I sat in the car on our drive to the desert where we would be staying for the night, I remembered the melting half chocolate bar sitting in my new elephant purse from Didi. I squeezed out the gooey paste from the top, not realizing that the bottom of the wrapper had decided to release its sugary contents all over my white shirt. I lapped up the chocolate from the wrapper until Melissa opened the door to let me out of the car. Upon asking a store manager for the dust bin, he laughed, gesturing for me to dispose of the mess in the street. I couldn't do it (but I did see a girl from my program who I'm sure never litters in the states throw her candy wrapper in a pile of garbage on the sidewalk, justifying out loud that she had no other choice- trash cans are almost impossible to find and overflowing if found) so I left it on the sink where I washed the Cadbury marks from my face.

Anyway, driving through Rajasthan was beautiful. We rode camels from our tent hotel rooms in the early evening to watch the sunset.The desert sand felt like silk and the glowing sun disappearing behind the rolling hills of sand dunes was beautiful.  It was a fun little ride, but I felt bad for my 5 year old camel, Rocket, who was being led with reins coming from silver spikes in his nostrils;  Sahil, our camel driver, also kept trying to make the poor thing trot faster but he stubbornly remained at a slow walk. There actually were not many other foreign tourists, but it still felt strange- especially with one of the camel drivers being a 10 year old boy. I have become so conscious of being a tourist that I carry around this awkward feeling; no matter what we do to lay low we attract much attention. We sadly had to leave the beauty behind to escape a group of young male gawkers who pulled a donut in the sand on their way out behind us. The next morning we left at 5 am for a return 15 hour drive to the airport to fly to Mumbai and drive back to Pune, finally arriving back at 4 am Tuesday morning. It was quite something.

Saree Shopping

I tagged along with my host mom and her sister in law to shop for sarees on Laxmi Road- the most popular shopping place in Pune. They were looking for summer sarees- cotton ones and light colors to stay cool. As we walked down the street and passed teens in jeans and Western tops, Didi asked me, "Don't girls get hot wearing these tight clothes?" Sarees are apparently cool because they expose the back and midriff while being loose on the bottom. They can be 10 ft of fabric, sometimes longer, and it must take some time to master wrapping them around you. We went into 3 shops- you take off your shoes, sit on a thin mattress on the floor and men pull out dozens of brightly colored, elaborately patterned fabrics. Didi would say "white and cotton" and they would bring colored, non-cotton, then try to convince us how nice they were. The best was when the men would open up the fabric and hold it up on themselves to display (this isn't only in saree shops- men are workers in every store and restaurant, you don't find women working in any kind of sales job). The walls of the saree shops are lined with hundreds of designs and materials. There was a lot of arguing at the first shop and I was convinced that we were leaving without purchasing anything until I saw Didi's sister in law paying for 3 sarees at the counter. One of the workers also threw down the words "modern" about the patterns and how they were changing with the times. I even saw one with ships on it which was just strange. Many of them just appear to me as fancy tablecloths, which doesn't mean they won't make good sarees...I just view it differently. I also have a terrible American perception of color combinations- like how orange and black means Halloween or red and green means Christmas, and I refuse to wear those because of the holiday associations. In between stores, we stopped for a drink of coconut water where the man hacked off the very top of the coconut with his machete like knife, stuck a straw in and handed it to me. I've heard good and bad things about the taste, but I didn't think it had any taste at all. We ended with a visit to the blouse shop to find matching fabric for the little shirt that you wear underneath the saree. I think they're quite pretty but have no need to buy one unless I find a wedding to go to, and Didi told me I could borrow any of hers if I had to. She has many gorgeous ones. Who wants to bring a new fad to America? 

Bombay



Quote from the Gandhi Museum



Marine Drive

Gateway of India, built for the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911

On our train ride to Mumbai, I finished reading Shantaram-an amazing 1,000 page adventure story based on the author's life in '80s Bombay. I highly recommend it- you won't get bored. It's been a great read here because it's about a foreigner experiencing and falling in love with India, having introduced me to new Marathi and Hindi words as well as Indian foods and cultures. I visited Leopold's Cafe during my stay in Mumbai the past three days, which is where the main character, Lin, hangs out often in the book.

Mumbai is a neat city and very different from Pune. It's on the coast with a nice ocean view, so we ran to Marine Drive to watch the sunset the other night. Unfortunately we missed it, but the salty smell and the cool wind was still refreshing. Mumbai also has a lot of pretty British architecture that makes you feel like you're in London. The humidity was kind of gross but the city has some western luxuries I have not experienced in 2 months...our group stayed at a hotel with real showers and regular towels ("you don't know what you got 'til it's gone..."). I also went to Theobroma, a bakery/cafe, that I could talk about for days. I ate the best brownie ever that tasted like a chocolate chip cookie and a brownie had a baby-warm, gooey, delish. I definitely saw some American food offerings during our stay that are hard to find in Pune; there is significantly more Westernization and tourism in Mumbai. I couldn't believe how many foreigners there was walking down the street; I am not used to that and I totally stared at them (in Pune when we see white people, we assume it's a student from our group). We met some students from Michigan at our hotel who were on spring break. The Westernization was even evident when we visited St. Xavier's College. All the students were wearing Western clothes, which might not be that surprising, but it's more than at the universities in Pune where it's common to wear traditional Indian clothes as well.

Doke, khaande, goodagay, paayachi boate

(Head, Shoulders, Knees, Toes) We learned body parts in Marathi class on Tuesday, and I tried to fit it to song but there was way too many syllables. My Marathi teacher had no idea what I was blabbering excitedly about, but we enjoyed singing Head Shoulders Knees and Toes in Marathi.

It has been a busy week with three papers, non stop class and internship things starting. I was moved to a different organization, but I am happy to say that I'm working with BAIF- the organization we stayed with while we were visiting the tribal villages (www.baif.org.in). I'll be doing environmental education activities with secondary school children. I'll visit in a few weeks and officially start the first week of April.

As Hannah and I arrived home today at 4:40 pm, the earliest I have been home all week, I secretly hoped that she would fall asleep and we would skip meditation. Preston, our Alliance alum advisor and our go- to person for just about everything, has been hosting meditation sessions at his host dad's house. This was the first time Hannah and I went, and I ended up being glad since the person who thinks they're too busy to meditate is probably the person who needs it the most. Everyone did a "check in" with how they were feeling today, and it was a nice experience to share; Preston said he enjoyed the time he normally spent talking to us, but he also enjoyed being with us not talking.

Now after my 10 hour night of sleep and meditation session, I feel ready to go on a trip this weekend with my Environmental Perspectives class and then visit Mumbai on Wednesday for 5 days with the program.

Cows on the Beach

Janjira Fort

Janjira fort is visible from land, but completely surrounded by water. The boat ride took about ten minutes, and we rode with all kinds of Indian tourists. The boat pulled up near the stone steps into the fort, giving you no choice but to jump. 

Bessie stopped to chat when we greeted her hello, gave a few nods as Kelsie was shooting the breeze, and continued on her way as we said goodbye. 

As Lindsey and Kelsie meditated, I creeped behind them to take a picture and unintentionally disturbed their serene state of mind. 

We cooed at a baby in his mother's arms, and he started scrunching up his face like he was going to cry. The mother looks at Emily, holds out the baby, and says, "Here, carry him." Emily tries to kindly refuse, but the dad just goes, "No problem!" and snaps a few pictures. 

Last weekend I took a trip to Marud Janjira, a beach on the coast of Maharashtra, with a large fort in the water (Janjira). I have taken fresh air for granted many times in the US; I realized it once we were celebrating our ability to be breathe happily upon our arrival. We ate delicious food- lots of veg. thali, which is a mixed plate (basically like getting a home cooked meal with daal, chapati, veggies, masala or curry and dessert) and omelet sandwiches on fresh rolls.

We were all excited for the beach but tried not to get our hopes up. Everyone on the beach was fully clothed- no bathing suits- and people were not lounging in the sand with umbrellas/towels/chairs, but it was perfect nonetheless (there was also a crowded beach nearby that was probably more beach like but we went to the one next to our hotel). The  water was warm and clean and clear, we found lots of pretty seashells, we walked endlessly through the groovy sand in the shallow afternoon tide, and we gazed at the water until the sun set. I was only asked once for a picture, and we didn't draw much attention on the beach except for when we did our little hippie dance with our scarves at sunset. Kelsie talked to a very kind cow, we saw some sunbathing pups, and we enjoyed the wind in our hair.

Mi lihite (I write)

Hannah and I went to the opening of the Vasundhara International Film Festival where they had traditional Indian dance- kathak ballet- portraying the six seasons in India.

Valentine's Day

As Hannah and I left for school, my host mom came out onto the little balcony and shouted to us that she hoped we would get roses. We laughed, but as I was walking back from class on campus, I was stopped by a student who said, "Excuse me, ma'am" and handed me a rose wrapped in heart cellophane. Valentine's Day is not an official holiday here or largely celebrated, but with so many Western traditions coming in, it has become an acknowledged holiday. Stores sell holiday cards for it, and roses are sold on the street. We received an email the day before from our program director entitled "Valentine's Day Unrest" (no worries- I witnessed nothing like this):

Summary: Protests, vandalism and other forms of unrest are possible across India through the Feb. 14 Valentine's Day holiday. Right-wing Hindu groups strongly object to the observance of the unofficial holiday. Unrest is particularly likely in Bangalore, Mangalore, Mumbai, New Delhi and major cities in Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu and Uttar Pradesh states.
Background & Analysis: Valentine's Day is very popular among many young Indians, but pro-Hindu groups such as the Sri Ram Sene, Shiv Sena, Bharath Sena, Hindu Jagran Manch, Bajrang Dal and the Vishwa Hindu Parishad (World Hindu Council) consider the holiday an affront to Indian culture and an example of gross Western commercialism. These groups regularly threaten to disrupt holiday events. Protests are common, especially outside major government buildings, hotels, eateries (including multinational fast-food outlets) and shops selling Valentine's Day sundries. Demonstrations can turn violent - protesters have ransacked shops, burned greeting cards and posters and harassed and assaulted people celebrating the unofficial holiday. Confrontations with police could occur.
Advice: Avoid protests and limit exposure to gift shops, hotels, restaurants and other targets whose proprietors typically ignore warnings to shut down. Use caution in crowded commercial areas and avoid public displays of affection. Potential troublemakers are often easily identifiable; right-wing Hindu activists regularly wear saffron-colored clothing or carry orange flags.

A Typical Day in the Life

6:00 Wake up, bucket shower, move the couch and chairs
6:30-7:30 Yoga in the living room with our teacher, Gauri (twice a week)
7:50 Walk to the rickshaw stand in our neighborhood and find a rickshaw that will take us to school since sometimes they say no, usually to me so I make Hannah ask
8:00 Arrive at the program center on the Fergusson College campus, eat breakfast
8:30-9:30 Do homework, read the newspaper, talk with friends
9:45-11:15 Class
11:30-1:00 Class
1:00-2:00 Lunch
2:15-3:45 Class
4:00 Walk home (45 minutes)
5:00 Homework
6:30-7:30 Marathi class, painting class or meditation
8:00 Dinner
8:30 Homework
10:30 Bed

Food I commonly eat:

Breakfast- hard boiled eggs, spinach chapati, oatmeal (thick sweet milk with oatish things), yogurt, pohe (flattened rice with onions, chiles and spices), wada pav (fried potato dumpling eaten in a bun, called the Indian burger) fruit- bananas, papaya, guava, apples, pears, watermelon, grapes
*Since breakfast is served at the program center, it's prepared to somewhat please our American tastes, but there is definitely an Indian identity to some of it.*

Lunch- My favorite place to go is Parathas, where my friends and I split a paratha filled with palak (spinach), aloo (potato), or mushroom and cheese. They serve it with a side of yogurt, a cucumber salad type thing, and chutney. Uttapas are also very delicious- a buttered pancake like food, sometimes with tomato and onion cooked in it, served with chutney and a tomato soupish like dish. You can find sandwiches at many places- lots of vegetable filled ones (mayonnaise, cucumber and tomatoes) or peppers and masala (spices). Any bread but white is slightly difficult to find though. The day we ate Smokin' Joes Pizza was surprisingly good, considering I am very picky about my pizza (they gave us ketchup and mustard packets, which  make up for the lack of sauce on the pizza). If we aren't full, there are lots of good ice cream places near our college, as well as a bakery.

Dinner- A cook comes to my house every morning. My host mom sometimes makes part of our dinner and heats up what the cook prepared. We always have chapatis, rice, dal (lentil stew), some vegetable dish (potatoes, cauliflower, peas, pumpkin...), a raw salad like cucumber/tomatoes/onions, and something sweet. The food is served on the plate in a specific fashion with salad on the left, vegetables on the right, chapati at the bottom of the plate and the dal/curry in a little bowl at the top of the plate. You serve with your left hand and eat with your right; I have become quite good at this but it can still be difficult sometimes to use your fingers like a spoon.

This weekend I will be in Marud Janjiri on the coast of Maharashtra. There's supposed to be a nice beach, a historical fort in the water, and (cross your fingers) some fresh air!

You know you're not in the US when...

Student from the concert at the deaf school

1. You see three goats and a dog eating out of the same dumpster

2. Men are walking down the street holding hands, with their arms around each others shoulders or lounging in the grass posing for pictures

3. Women in beautiful saris are cruising their 2 wheelers down the street with a kid on the back carrying his diorama project

4. People wear ear muffs, hats and sweatshirts in (70 degrees) winter

5. You have to hoard your change because everyone claims they have none and refuse your large bills

6. The only thing sold at the post office is stamps and if you want to mail a package, you have to glue on 50 little pictures of Gandhiji

7. You spend more time washing your feet than your hair

8. You blow your nose and find black polluted boogers

9. The gym isn't open at convenient hours

10. 100,000,000 children and young men ask to take your picture and look devastated when you say no

11. Old men stop their 2 wheelers on the side of the road where you're walking just to ask where you're from and drive away

12. The little pink and purple castle across the street is not a child's playhouse but a temple

13. Most houses don't have ovens

14. Your peripheral vision is clouded with human/animal waste

15. Women are nowhere in sight

16. Children are in school on Saturdays

17. There's a veg restaurant on every block, not a Starbucks

18. Coffee and peanut butter are hard to find

19. Kids eat vegetables from their lunchboxes

20. Girls stare at you for bringing your own tp into the bathroom

21. Jumping on a bus while it's moving is totally normal

22. Someone tells you that you're the first Jew they've ever met

23. Women are smart enough to scope out future inlaws as well as husbands

24. Parcel means "to go" and you have to pay extra

25. Shaking your head from side to side (which doesn't mean "no") can be a whole conversation

26. Enthusiastically responding yes multiple times to your questions doesn't necessarily mean yes

27. You consume more chai than water

28. Scheme does not denote a villain's evil plan (but rather a cell phone plan or health insurance)

29. The hand that feeds you wants you to eat sugar and gain weight

30. Mango is the most popular flavor for everything

31. You have to check your purse at the grocery store

32. There's no waitresses (just waiters)and service is slow...everywhere

33. Even white people stare at white people (usually in disbelief and to guess what country they're from- or maybe that's just me)

34. "Happy Birthday" or "Silent Night" blares from your car as you back up

35. Sidewalks are covered with spit, not gum

36. When you ask for index cards at a store, they hand you a protractor and compass set

And the list goes on and on and on...

Guavalicious

Kate couldn't say no when people asked her to be in their pictures!

I have been pestered to update, and I'm not holding back on purpose- I am actually going to school, and I do have homework sometimes (*cough Mom*) plus my internet has been terribly slow.

The caves were awesome! The trip was long again- another 6 hour drive plus the drive from our hotel to the caves themselves, but it was well worth it. Indian citizens pay 10 rupees ($0.25) to visit the national heritage site while foreigners pay 250 rps ($6.25). There was a decent number of tourists, but we still remained the minority. By the end of the weekend, we were convinced that the only reason Indians went to the caves was to photograph themselves with white people. I cannot even guess the number of times we were asked to pose for a picture, sometimes alone, sometimes with one Indian man, sometimes with a large group of young men, sometimes with 100 school children. Poor Kate attracted the most attention and just couldn't bring herself to refuse, although we tried to drag her away countless times from the insistent crowds.

Anyway, we visited Ajanta Saturday and on Sunday we visited Ellora. Ajanta has over 30 caves of relatively the same size, all in the same area. Most are Buddhist caves with elaborate paintings inside. Ellora is most famous for its largest cave, number 16, which is the best place for Hide and Go Seek I have ever seen (I resisted the temptation- didn't want to be sacrilegious or draw any more unwanted attention to my tall white self). There are a number of other, smaller, less impressive caves spread out. Ellora is known for its architecture. We didn't use a tour guide or read most of the signs, so I apologize for not being able to give you any history on these beautiful sights. We had the most fun on Sunday watching the monkeys leap across the little bridge where we stopped to take pictures of their strangely long tails and funny playfulness, while the Indians took pictures of our strangely white skin and funny behavior.

I'm finally done with police registration! Our program's director was so happy when we came back with our official approved documents that she bought us mango ice cream. There's this complicated process that changes all the time where you have to register with the local police station if your visa gets a "registration required" stamp. I've been there 3 or 4 times, with one visit lasting 3.5 hours (we had to wait an hour while a worker took a chai break).

Didi took Hannah and I to a concert at a school for deaf and mute children where her friend works. The students performed skits, read poems and danced; they were adorable and terrific. One of the skits was about a boy named Bablu who didn't want to do homework- all he wanted to do was watch cricket on TV. He started having bad dreams about school subjects as monsters (cue the math monster with blinking devil horns, face make up and math facts written on his costume) until his parents had his teacher tutor him. He started to play cricket with the math monster until he understood, and then he got his brand new cricket bat signed by a famous cricket player. Totally every little boy's life here...haha.

Breaking news- My internship in April is going to be at the Center for Environmental Education. I don't know anything else about it yet, but I'm happy about the placement!

A post wouldn't be complete without me talking about food! Here's something for you to try- cereal with warm milk. Absolutely delicious, although it might cause sogginess. Also, pb and nutella sandwiches are pretty tight (apparently Colorado's version of "wicked"- thanks Hannah) for picnic lunches inside caves.
Dude, have you ever had a guava?!?! They have an amazing yet indescribable taste. Nothing guava flavored in the US does justice to the real thing. And they're not all pink- the outside is green and the inside can be either pink or white (and you eat the whole thing- waste free fruit). There are so many different kinds of fruit here!

Laamb Aathawada (Long Week)

Lots of happenings from the past week and a half!

Ajay and Atul Concert- my favorite little boy

Student on Republic Day dressed up as the god Kali

• Republic Day (January 26): Our group was invited to a school for an Independence Day assembly. We sat in our white attire in a group of chairs in front of the microphone, performance area, and at least 500 parents, teachers and students outside in the school courtyard. So it wasn't embarrassing when myself and a few others walked in late and a teacher beckoned us over to walk to our seats in front of everyone. The assembly consisted of student and teacher awards (the school year begins in January) and song/dance performances from students. What makes the national holiday that much more significant today is the fact that there are some who can celebrate it having been alive pre-independence (India gained freedom in 1947). 

• Movies: Didi took Hannah and I to see Dhobi Ghat (Mumbai Diaries- coming out in the States), which means laundry place. It has a good chunk of spoken English in it because one of the characters is an American so we understood it for the most part. The theater was really nice, and not only did they sell popcorn, they sold sweet corn (the veggie), coffee, ice cream, bakery goods, chips, samosas and veggie sandwiches.

• From PC to FC (Fergusson College): With the semester just having begun, all the departments and student clubs put together various events for a week of celebration. All kinds of theatrical performances, sidewalk games, singing and large dance parties took place last week. On Saturday (school does happen on Saturday- primary through college), Hannah and I watched a parade of music and dancing that continued for over two hours in the hot sun. 

• Ajay and Atul Concert: Ajay and Atul are two brothers who sing Marathi music, very popular in this area. We bought cheap tickets, sitting in plastic lawn chairs very very very far from the stage where Ajay and Atul were lowered by a crane carrying them in lit up box. There were all kinds of special effects- laser lights, confetti- and lots of dancing, by performers and the crowd. I had just as much fun watching the crowd as listening to the music, especially as audience members started stacking their chairs to give themselves a better view. A security guard came and yelled at a whole group of people in front of me to unstack their chairs, so they began to grudgingly, stopping when a woman stood up to the guard, refusing to move her three chairs. The guard smiled and walked away, and everyone happily restacked their chairs. I couldn't help watching the little boy who managed to get 6 chairs high to the point where his feet became far from the ground and used this height to carefully stand up and flag down the popcorn seller. 

• Tribal Village Visit: We stayed at a lodge run by an NGO called BAIF (http://goodnewsindia.com/Pages/content/institutions/baif.html), started in 1967 by Manibhai Desai, a follower of Gandhi. The lodge is relatively near to the villages where they work, which we also got to visit. They mainly do small sustainable agriculture projects with the villagers, helping them to begin gardens and small farms, growing tomatoes, cashews and mangoes. Desai, now deceased, is the reason that many of the villagers recovered from alcoholism, which is common in tribal areas. BAIF also helped bring clean water to the people. We saw all of this work in action at the villages (with Desai's picture hung up on houses and trees), as well as touring a Primary Health Center that serves a population of 35,000 people from 30 different villages, 98 hamlets. Our public health professor who lived in the village for a year translated for us while we asked the medical officer questions at the health center. In that 30 minute visit, we saw a woman who had given birth 24 hours prior with her newborn baby as well as another woman being carried in who had been poisoned. Our professor said his best guess would be she tried to poison herself since the suicide rate in tribal areas can be as high as 10% because of poverty, debt, family fueds, infertility and a lack of future. 

Too short of a stay (2 days)
Reminiscing of Kenya and Nicaragua
Interested Indian adolescents (taking pictures with white girls)
Beautiful scenery
Adorable children (my car mates were sick of me saying "aw")
Latest I've stayed up in India (11:15 pm- LOSER)

Very talented artists (paper mache, Warli paintings)
Incomplete but usually paved, bumpy roads
Long, hot car rides
Lack of western toilets
Actually smiling, friendly village people
Gained interesting knowledge on tribes/health
Effective NGO work

• Panorama of Cultures 2011: The foreign student organization at FC held a performance where students sang and danced to traditional music from their respective countries, ending with the singing of each country's national anthem. It was amazing to watch, although I am starting to realize that the American attention span is much shorter than the Indian's. There are 450 international students at FC from 36 different countries, and I'm proud to say that I went on stage with our group to sing The Star Spangled Banner (no practice, no warning). I learned about a new country, Mauritius, watched a French girl try to keep up with the Indian dancers, and tried not to laugh at the grinning South Korean boy doing a "hip hop" dance. 

Off to see the historical caves Ajanta and Ellora this weekend, which are one of the most recommended sites to see in India, with their beautiful architecture and paintings, depicting various religious drawings. Thanks for reading!